Birds Chirping Sounds at Train Stations .

I've been asked several times about why are there those birds chirping sounds at train stations here in Japan . The reason is the same as why you see those yellow blocks on the ground at train stations and on walkways in Japan . It's an assistance guide for visually impaired people . Those yellow blocks assist blind people with white canes to walk around , indicating when they can keep walking or pay attention to any dangerous situations . The birds chirping sounds are an audio clue that the person is either close to a train station exit , a stairway or a ticket gate . In the video bellow , I was at Tokyo's Yurakucho station , and you can hear the birds chirping sounds when close to the stairway , that also happens to be next to the ticket gates and the station's entrance . I didn't edit the video bellow , so consider it a raw cut , just for illustration purposes . Sorry for the poor quality of the narration .

Birds Chirping Sounds at Train Stations

Itsukushima , the Sacred Island .

On December 18th , 2022 , Itsukushima Shrine’s Torii Gate was officially re opened to the public with a traditional ceremony , after almost 3 years and a half of repair works . The repair works involved some repairs on the Torii Gate itself , the roof on top of the Gate and a new coat of paint , and started on June 17th 2019 . The last renovation was made between 1950 and 1951 , during the reign of the late Emperor Showa . The renovation works took longer than expected because of difficulties in the process . Before the repair works started , it was already known that there were parts of the Torii Gate that were eaten by termites , and were “empty” . The Torii Gate was restored using the traditional process of 埋木 ( Umeki ) , a process in which the damaged wooden parts are carved out and replaced with “healthy” wooden parts . When the shrine’s Torii Gate was originally built in 1875 it wasn’t painted , but in the 1909 reform it was painted with it’s actual Vermillion color . Though Vermillion color is actually more red like ( RGB 239,69,74 ) , Japan’s Traditional Vermillion color is actually more orange like ( RGB 235,97,1 ) . Until around the Meiji Restoration , Shinto Shrines and Buddhist Temples were more or less interconnected . One of the reasons for the choice of the Vermillion color of the gate is about Buddhist beliefs that the color red helps in avoiding misfortunes . Itsukushima Shrine’s Torii Gate stands 16.6 meters high , or about almost 55 ft high . There were also other repair works on the Shrine’s buildings that began on September 2020 and were also finished at the time of the end of the Torii Gate’s renovation works . Itsukushima Shrine is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site .

To visit Itsukusima Shrine you’ll need to embark on a ferry at Hatsukaichi port . The fare is 360 yen per adult and 180 yen per child for the round trip . Children fares are for children aged up to 11 years old , 12 years old and up are billed adult fare .

If you intend on taking pictures of the Torii Gate from the ferry , be aware that the ferry only gets close to the Torii Gate on it’s way to the island , on the return trip it won’t get close to the Torii Gate . When the tide is low it’s possible to walk from the shrine to the Torii Gate and take pictures of the Gate and the shrine afar . Here’s the link to a site that shows the Tide levels at Itskushima .

Itsukushima Shrine Torii Gate as seen @ Low Tide

My advice for your reading this post is to allocate a hole day to visit Itsukushima . Plan ahead and check the tide levels so you can walk to the Gate . There’s more to Itsukushima than the shrine . The Torii Gate is illuminated at night , which gives you a good opportunity for a different picture of the Gate .

They say you can’t go to Itsukushima and not visit Mount Misen . It is accessible by Cable Car . There are signs indicating the bus stop for the free bus that takes you to the Cable Car station . The fare is 1840 yen per adult and 920 yen per child for the round trip . Children fares are for children aged up to 11 years old , 12 years old and up are billed adult fare . There are other small shrines on top of Mount Misen , if you don’t mind walking around . The view of Hattsukaichi from Mount Misen is quite a nice one .

There are lots of shops and restaurants on the way from Itsukushima port to the shrine . When you get out of Itsukushima port you’ll greeted by the most peculiar island inhabitants , the Japanese Deer . Just be aware that these Deer are used to presence of humans and won’t mind in approaching visitors to possibly grab anything they think it’s edible .

Kintaikyo Bridge located in Iwakuni City , Yamaguchi Prefecture and Itsukushima are located very close . It’s possible to visit both on the same day .

※This Blog post was last updated on February 2nd , 2023 .

The Treasure Cat

Maneki Neko @ Odakyu Gotokuji Station — Beckoning Cat statue @ Odakyu Gotokuji Station

Maneki Neko @ Gotokuji — Beckoning Cat @ Gotokuji

“The Maneki Neko (Japanese: 招き猫, literally "beckoning cat") is a common Japanese figurine (lucky charm, talisman) which is often believed to bring good luck to the owner. In modern times, they are usually made of ceramic or plastic. The figurine depicts a cat (traditionally a calico Japanese Bobtail) beckoning with an upright paw, and is usually displayed in—often at the entrance of—shops, restaurants, pachinko parlors, laundromats, dry cleaners, salons, and other businesses. Modern Japanese superstition suggests that keeping a talisman of good fortune, such as the Maneki Neko, in bedrooms and places of study will bring about favorable results and life successes.”

“ Because of its popularity in Chinese communities (including Chinatowns in the United States) the Maneki Neko is frequently mistaken for being Chinese in origin rather than Japanese, and is incorrectly referred to as a "Chinese lucky cat" or jīnmāo ("golden cat").”

Maneki Neko and Autumn foliage — Beckoning Cat Offering Shelves ( before July 2022 Renovation ) and Autumn foliage

Kannon , the goddess of mercy , and Maneki Neko — Kannon , the goddess of mercy , and Beckoning Cat ( photo taken before July 2022 Renovation )

In Japan , legend has it that the Maneki Neko originated at Gotokuji 豪徳寺 , which is a Buddhist temple located in Tokyo’s Setagaya Ward , and is affiliated with Soto Zen , the largest of the three traditional sects of Zen in Japanese Buddhism . Originated in 1480 , Gotokuji had quite a humble existence until it was designated as one of the official temples for the Ii family in 1633 . In Japan , Buddhist temples have cemeteries in their grounds , and it was quite a honor for Gotokuji to have the tombs of some members of the Ii family , including Ii Naotaka , who served in the Siege of Osaka , and finished building Hikone castle in 1622 . The Ii family were feudal lords in today’s Shiga Prefecture in Japan , serving under the Tokugawa Shogunate , and it’s also worth mentioning that the Ii family had an important role helping the Tokugawa Shogunate establishing it’s power . From Edo , nowadays Tokyo , the Tokugawa Shogunate controlled all of Japan , and in the country side the Daimyo , the feudal lords , serving under the Shogunate , controlled the land . As a way of keeping the Daimyo under it’s control , the Tokugawa Shogunate mandated that the Daimyo should periodically come to Edo to pay their respects . Edo , nowadays Tokyo , flourished during the period of the Tokugawa Shogunate , as it’s capital , though the Emperor resided in Kyoto . In the early Edo period , Gotokuji was still a humble temple , and in it lived it’s chief priest with his pet cat . The temple didn’t have much money , but the chief priest would share his meals with his cat . Legend has it , that once the chief priest asked his cat to bring good fortune . Sometime passed by , and one day , a feudal lord with his entourage entered the temple . The feudal lord was Ii Naotaka . He said that while passing by the temple’s gate he saw the chief priest’s cat waving his paw to him , inviting him to the temple . While a thunderstorm felt outside , Ii Naotaka was served some tea and prayers by the temple’s chief priest . Feeling enlightened and grateful to the temple , Ii Naotaka donated large quantities of rice , quite valuable at the time , thus changing the fortunes of the , at the time , humble temple . Later , Gotokuji was designated as one of the official temples for the Ii family .

Koma Inu atop of Incense Burner and the Tachibana , the Ii Family Crest

Gotokuji is located within 10 minutes walking distance from Gotokuji station on the Odakyu Odawara Line . It’s about a 15 minutes train ride , departing from Odakyu’s Shinjuku station local trains platform ( number 8 or 9 ) .

In 2006 a three storied pagoda was erected . “ In Japanese Buddhist temples , the pagoda’s original purpose was to house relics and sacred writings “ .

In this pagoda , the cat themed ornaments are noticeable , and in special , a cat doll on the second floor , which is usually missed by most visitors .

Kannon , above the Maneki Neko and Cat dolls

Cat doll , ornament , @ Gotokuji’s Pagoda

The Pagoda’s entrance faces East , while to the North side the Maneki Prayer Hall is located . The Maneki Prayer Hall underwent renovation and was reopened on July 2022 . Another interesting detail on the Pagoda , are the 12 animals of the Chinese Zodiac represented , 3 on each side , on the ground floor . For your information the 12 animals of the Chinese Zodiac , as in Japanese Culture , are in sequence : the Rat , Ox , Tiger , Rabbit , Dragon , Snake , Horse , Sheep , Monkey , Rooster , Dog and Wild Boar . In a Compass , the Rat would be featured in the North position , while the other 11 animals would be featured in a clock wise formation . Folklore has it that a Chinese Emperor staged a race between the animals to decide which ones were to be featured in the Chinese Zodiac and in which sequence . It is said that the Rat , for being friends with the Ox arrived first , because it jumped to the finishing line after riding on the back of the Ox . Another folk tale is that the Cat was deceived by the Rat , so it is not one of the 12 animals featured on the Chinese Zodiac , but in the Pagoda , the Rat is featured bringing a Koban , a Japanese Coin , to the Maneki Neko . You can see this depiction on the North facet of the Pagoda .

On February 24th , 2020 , a Maneki Neko Bronze Statue was unveiled at the entrance to the Maneki Prayer Hall .

On July 2022 the reform of the Maneki Prayer Hall was finished . The difference between this Prayer Hall and the other Prayer Halls at the Gotokuji Temple grounds is that the deity enthroned at the altar is the Beckoning Cat . It’s possible to take a look through the glass on the doors of the Prayer Hall .

There are Offering Shelves to the left of the Maneki Prayer Hall and at the back side . The new Offering Shelves at the left of the Maneki Prayer Hall now feature roofs over them .

Another recent addition to the temple was the Jizo Hall , that is located at the right side from the main gate . The Jizo statue already existed , but until recently there wasn’t a place reserved for public display .

There’s one saying that the Devil only walk through straight paths so it’s common to see in Japanese Gardens and other pathways, a broken pattern , a not straight path . You can observe this pattern at the entrance path to the Jizo Hall . Another interesting detail can be observed in the Votive Lanterns ( 献燈 ) at the entrance . You can clearly see the Ii family’s Kamon ( Family Crest ) , the Tachibana ( a type of Japanese Orange ) . The Ii Family Crest is also featured at the top of the temple’s main gate and the in the incense burner .

Quote from this Wikipedia article : “Kṣitigarbha is known for his vow to take responsibility for the instruction of all beings in the six worlds between the death of Gautama Buddha and the rise of Maitreya, as well as his vow not to achieve Buddhahood until all hells are emptied. He is therefore often regarded as the bodhisattva of hell-beings, as well as the guardian of children and patron deity of deceased children and aborted fetuses in Japanese culture, where he is known as Jizō or Ojizō-sama”

Some facts about Maneki Neko . Maneki Neko with their right paw standing are said to bring good fortune , while the ones with the left paw standing are said to bring in customers . Common colors for Maneki Neko are white , black and gold , sometimes red . Usually Maneki Neko feature a 小判 ( Koban coin ) , but the ones found at Gotokuji don’t have it . The explanation given at the temple’s homepage is that 招福猫児 Maneki Neko can help with your 縁 En ( Fate , Karma or Destiny ) , but it will depend on the person’s attitude to achieve 福　( Good Fortune ) .

The Maneki Neko statues placed at Gotokuji are bought at the temple and are offerings from people who visit the temple . There are no rules as to when do the Maneki Neko offerings . Some people write their names and their wishes in the statue and place them (the wishes can also be written in Ema , votive tablets , and placed at designated places at the temple ) . Others , take the Maneki Neko statues to their homes as amulets , and after some time bring the statues back to the temple and make the offering . The temple’s staff encourage visitors to take the Maneki Neko statues to home with them .

This Blog post contains “citations” from Wikipedia , information from written Wikipedia articles , and information found at the temple’s homepage .

※This Blog post was updated on July 21th , 2022 .

Tokyo's Glass Palaces .

Tokyo International Forum

Located in Tokyo’s Marunouchi Ward , the Tokyo International Forum was opened to the public on January 10th , 1997 . The majority owner of the company administering the Tokyo International Forum is the Tokyo Metropolitan Government . It was designed by Uruguayan architect Rafael Viñoly , and it was built at the former site of the Tokyo City Hall ( before it was moved to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building , in Tokyo’s Shinjuku Ward , in 1991 . The closest train station is JR Yurakucho station , though it can accessed from JR Tokyo station through an underground passage . The Glass Hall building features swooping curves of steel truss and glass ; it’s exterior is shaped like an elongated boat .

Conference rooms are located on the Yurakucho station side of the Glass Hall . There’s a ramp running clock wise on the sides of the Glass Hall . Through this ramp it is possible to access the top floor of the Glass Hall . There are foot bridges connecting this ramp , the adjacent events halls building and the conference rooms . Beware if you’re going to take pictures inside the Glass Hall , as it is a functioning business building . Tripod use is only possible with prior authorization . Depending on the conference rooms usage , there are times that access to the foot bridges is restricted .

The National Art Center , Tokyo

The National Art Center , Tokyo , is a museum located in the Roppongi district of Minato Ward in Tokyo . The building was designed by Japanese architect Kisho Kurokawa . It was opened to the public on January 21st , 2007 . Unlike Japan's other national art museums, NACT is an 'empty museum', without a collection, permanent display, and curators. Like Kunsthalle in German-speaking regions, it accommodates temporary exhibitions sponsored and curated by other organizations. There’s a direct access , exit number 6 , from Nogizaka station , on the Tokyo Metro Chiyoda Line or you can walk from Roppongi station , either on the Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line or Toei Oedo line . The museum is adjacent to the National Graduate Institute for Policy Studies and close to the Tokyo Midtown shopping complex and the Tokyo Ritz Carlton hotel . The museum is closed every Tuesday .

The curved steel and glass exterior is a distinctive feature of the museum’s architecture .

Another distinctive architectural feature of the museum is the restaurant / cafe area situated close it’s entrance . There are 2 inverted cones in which are situated the Café: Salon de Thé ROND , on the 2nd floor , and the BRASSERIE PAUL BOCUSE Le Musée , on the 3rd floor .

With citations from Wikipedia .

From Tokyo Station to the Tokyo International Forum Underground

Once I saw an online article in Japanese about Tokyo Station’s Dungeon . The title of this post might be a bit odd , but in reality it is about the underground passage from Tokyo Station to the entrance of the JR Keiyo Line Tokyo Terminus . The JR Keiyo Line Tokyo Terminus was opened in March 1990 , so it is newer than the other stations across Tokyo . The JR Keiyo Line is the train line that links Tokyo to Tokyo Disneyland and Makuhari Messe , both in Chiba Prefecture . This underground passage is also a way to go from Tokyo Station to the Tokyo International Forum on foot without the inconveniences of the outdoor weather . It is a 15 to 20 minutes walk from Tokyo Station to the Tokyo International Forum .

Tokyo Station , basically faces either the Marunouchi District or the Yaesu District . Tokyo Station has several entrances . The closest one to this underground passage is the Marunouchi Underground South Gate . Beware that this is an unmanned gate , with only automatic gates , if you’re using the Japan Rail Pass you might need to exit at the Marunouchi Underground Central Gate .

You can easily find the beginning of the passage by looking for the train wheels monument close to the Marunouchi Underground South Gate .

Past the train wheels monument go to entrance to the underground passage , which the red lights in it’s columns .

The JR Keiyo Line is color coded in red , hence the red lights in the columns .

Through this corridor , down the stairs .

Before you get to the gates of the JR Keiyo Line , to your right side is the entrance to the Tokyo International Forum .

Street Level entrance to the passage at the Tokyo International Forum .

At the Tokyo International Forum , it is possible to access the passage either through the entrance at street level or at the underground entrance .

Underground Entrance to the passage at the Tokyo International Forum .

At the Tokyo International Forum , the underground entrance to the passage is close to the Mitsuo Aida Museum .

※Blog Post title updated on 2021/12/19 .

One day Trip to Iwakuni

My advice for a one day trip to Iwakuni City in Yamaguchi Prefecture would consist of sightseeing the Kintai Bridge and Iwakuni Castle in the morning time and doing a factory tour at Asahi Brewery of Dassai Sake fame . Here's a YouTube video of the Brewery tour , though the actual tour is not like the video , it's much shorter and basic ( Visitors are not shown the Koji Room ) . What is shown in the Brewery Tour is the new 10 stories Brewery . You're taken by elevator to the 10th floor where the already polished rice is washed and prepared for cooking . Then you're taken downstairs through a flight of stairs to the refrigerated floor where there are huge fermentation vats with what is to become Dassai Sake . At the end you're shown a short video in a conference room . The actual tour might not be as interesting as the YouTube video , but the chance to feel the fruity vapors emanating from the fermentation vats is an interesting experience .

Things to take in consideration when visiting Iwakuni City . If you don’t mind walking , you can get to Kintai Bridge , from Kawanishi station on the Gantoku Line , after transferring at Iwakuni station , not Shin Iwakuni station , the Shinkansen station. It’s about a 9 minutes train ride from Iwakuni station to Kawanishi station and the fare is 190 yen per adult . The Kintai Bridge is located about 1.3 Km from Kawanishi station , and it will take you around 17 minutes to walk the distance .The Dassai Brewery is situated very into the mountain side of Iwakuni City . The afternoon Brewery Tour begins at 2:00 PM . After visiting the Kintai Bridge , you can return to Kawanishi station and go to Suo Takamori station . It’s about a 26 minutes train ride from Kawanishi station to Suo Takamori station and the fare is 240 yen per adult . From there take a taxi to the Asahi Brewery ( about 15 minutes ride from Suo Takamori station and the fare will be around 2700 to 3000 yen one way ) . For the Brewery Tour you'll need to make a reservation with at least 1 week in advance through this web form . The Brewery Tour schedule for the weekends is quite busy . Only 5 participants ( ages 13 and older ) are allowed per tour . The cost of the tour is 200 yen per person , covering the cost of the lab coat and cap to be worn during the tour . After the tour it is possible to do a tasting session of the Dassai Sake at the nearby Dassai Brewery store . The cost of the tasting session is 300 yen per person . Asahi Brewery will try to arrange an English speaking guide for the tour , but it is not guaranteed . The prices at the Brewery store are cheaper than what you'll find at Japanese liquor stores .

Iwakuni Castle is situated at the top of the mountain . To get to Iwakuni Castle you must take the Cable Car . To get there , first cross the Kintai Bridge towards the mountain . After passing by some local stores , Kikko Park with it's fountain and Iwakuni White Snakes Museum you'll find the Cable Car station . You're advised to buy the set ticket when crossing Kintai Bridge . The set ticket costs 940 yen and covers the Kintai Bridge crossing fee , the Cable Car fee and the Iwakuni Castle entrance fee .

Blog Post last updated on February 2nd , 2021 .

Kintai Bridge

Iwakuni Castle

Kintai Bridge from Iwakuni Castle

Old Asahi Brewery building

Kawauso Store

Rice Preparation Room

Japanese Fortune Cookies

The Chinese Fortune Cookies that can be had all over the World , except in China and Japan , at Chinese Restaurants , are really Japanese Fortune Cookies . You can read more details in this Japan Times article . Or you can watch this Adam Ruins Everything short clip on the matter .

I was able to find two shops selling the Japanese Fortune Cookies ( Omikuji Senbei or Tsujiura Senbei ) around Kyoto's Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine . Matsuya is close to Fushimi Inari Station on the Keihan Main Line . Matsuya has a web site and it is possible to order the cookies through the site , though it is all in Japanese . Matsuya is open from 8:00 AM until 6:00 PM , except on Wednesdays , when it’s closed . The other shop I've found is Souhonke Inariya , mentioned in the Japan Times article . Souhonke Inariya is located adjacent to Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine . It is open from 8:30 AM until 5:30 PM , except on Thursdays , when it is closed .

Souhonke Inariya's Fortune Cookies

The Fortunes inside the Cookies are written in Japanese , though at Souhonke Inariya it is possible to place orders for Cookies with the Fortunes written in either English or Chinese .

The main ingredients in the making of the Japanese Fortune Cookies are : Flour , Sugar , Miso Paste and White Sesame Seeds . Matsuya has a version of its cookie in which Ginger is added , giving a spicy flavor to the cookies .

Matsuya’s Plain Fortune Cookies

Matsuya’s Ginger flavored Fortune Cookies

There are some differences between these Fortune Cookies as you can see by the pictures . The most noticeable being that , on Matsuya’s Plain Fortune Cookies , the fortunes are on the outside of the cookies . That is because , inside Matsuya’s Plain Fortune Cookies there are 2 Roasted Soy Beans . Though I haven’t asked for the reason behind it , it comes to my mind the tradition of eating such Roasted Soy Beans on Setsubun , as a way of warding off bad fortunes and evil spirits .

Roasted Soy Beans

The cookies can be bought in packages of 5 or 10 cookies . At Matsuya, the package of 5 cookies costs 500 Yen , while the package of 10 cookies costs 950 Yen . Meanwhile , at Souhonke Inariya , the package of 5 cookies costs 480 Yen , and the package of 10 cookies costs 950 Yen .

※This Blog post was updated on August 8th , 2024 .

The Moss Garden and the Heart shaped Bush

Most people when visiting Tofukuji Temple's famous Moss Garden usually look down from the balcony and take pictures of the Moss and the square rocks , the usual Moss Garden Picture . But there is a small interesting Heart shaped bush , close to the Tea Room . Looking from the Balcony , the bush is at your left side , in the direction of the Tsutenkyo Bridge . I didn't noticed it until a Securit Guard showed it to me . It was quite a surprise because the said Heart shaped bush is not hidden , it is standing there in plain sight .

The Balcony and the Moss Garden

The Heart shaped Bush on the Upper Left

※This Blog post was updated on December 9th , 2022 .

Tsutenkyo Bridge

Tofuku-ji Temple ( Buddhist Temple ) is located at Kyoto's Higashiyama Ward . You can reach Tofuku-ji Temple either by bus ( Get off the bus at the Red Cross Hospital bus stop ) or by train ( Tofukji station on the JR Nara Line or Keihan Main Line ) . Before you reach the Kusaka Gate , that leads to the temple compounds , you will have to cross a covered bridge , the Gaunkyo Bridge . It is from the Gaunkyo bridge that you can take pictures of your beloved ones crossing the Tsutenkyo Bridge , inside the temple compounds . To cross the Tsutenkyo Bridge you will have to pay the admission fee to the Kaizando . The best timing to take this photo at the Tsutenkyo Bridge is either Spring ( Green leaves and clear sky ) or Autumn ( Autumn foliage ) . In terms of equipment , either a point and shoot camera with a zoom lens with a range on the tele side of around 100 mm to 135 mm ( 35 mm sensor equivalent ) or a smartphone with 5 to 6 X zoom lenses ( 100 mm to 135 mm , 35 mm sensor equivalent ) will do the job . As always , mind your manners as a tourist , and be considerate to others who might be wanting to take a picture like you're doing or of the view from the Tsutenkyo Bridge .

Tsutenkyo Bridge in early April 2016

Tsutenkyo Bridge in late November 2022

View from the Tsutenkyo Bridge in late November 2022

Tsutenkyo Bridge

Gaunkyo Bridge

※This Blog post was updated on November 3rd , 2024 .